Monday, October 18, 2010

steak with a smile

There's something good steakhouses have in common. Word gets around. For one with a repuatation like Goodman's it was no wonder that even on a monday night, there were scarcely empty tables in sight.

The double door entrance though minimalist, draws a premonition of a reasonably posh setting. With a classic bar counter to greet us at the entrance, I had a hunch my instincts were right. Waiting time for a table was kept to a minimum and we were quickly shown our seats. In what sounds like a contradiction, the lighting was dimly bright. Not one of those places that tends to be so dim you can barely see your food, it was bright enough for me to notice the clear marbling differences when the meat tray was brought over, and yet it was still dim enough to create a cosy ambience. With waitresses dressed in impeccably white aprons that front an otherwise black ensemble, the look is polished and sleek, blending in with the decor. I'm impressed to note that for serving what could be considered a messy dish, the aprons remain at pristine standards.

Tonight's cast featured of course the steaks as the stars of the show. But as I always say, what is a good show without a good opening act?

I opted for a recommended glass of gorgeously sweet dessert wine to start things off, 2006 Mylitta Tokaji, Hungary, while my dining partner chose a 2009 St Clair Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand.

The dessert wine in a beautiful deep gold with its concentrated rich palate was long and sweet. Strongly boasting powerful deep muscat notes pierced with sweet apricot, it was a real delight on the palate and did not disappoint at all.

My partner's Sauvignon Blanc was rather crisp, a light blend with a good bite to the finish. I detected strong notes of blackcurrant and passionfruit on the tongue, with a hint of zestiness picked up by the nose. A pleasant wine of medium body, great for a pre-dinner buildup.

Appetisers of Pork belly, tiger prawn tempura and crab bisque arrived jointly at the table. For a steakhouse, these were of rather decent standards and much effort was put into each presentation.

Appetiser 1: Crab bisque
Served in french style where the bisque was poured in at the table. Rich and creamy, the soup was fairly flavoursome but the taste of the crabmeat was over powered slightly by the overall saltiness. The lingering crustacean flavour on the taste buds were enjoyable and the shredded mass of crabmeat in the middle was well cooked and fresh. It did smell wonderful to me although my dining partner begs to differ. A seeming variation on the more commonly found lobster bisque, it was a decent try I found rather enjoyable. 6/10.

Appetiser 2: Pork Belly strips
The presentation also made for a fairly appetising appeal and this was a dish that both my dining partner and myself enjoyed. However, her much more than me. Perhaps as a fan of chinese styled braised pork belly, I have been spoilt by and grown much too accustomed to the typical tenderness which i much prefer. While she found the taste gorgeous, me being fussy me found that the meat was not as tender as I would have liked and the meaty flavour could be more intense but it is certainly one of the better non asian renditions I have sampled of this dish. In addition, the succulent fat melted in my mouth in accompaniment with a sweetness of the meat and the texture was overall great. 6.5/10

Appetiser 3: tiger prawn tempura, with avocado, mango and cajun mayonnaise.
I'm generally not a fan of tempura in western joints due to the thickness of batter. However, it came recommended by a waiter and I saw no harm in giving it another shot. The batter surprised me pleasantly, it was crisp and not as thick as I expected, with a light fluffy coat that detached from the prawn rather easily. The prawns were fresh and succulent and fairly tasty. The mix however, was overpowered by the avocado which triggered a sense of flatness which I failed to enjoy. However as a whole, fairly good attempt that has me rethinking tempura in western joints. Kudos to the chef. 7/10.

Side 1: Truffle chips
The truffle chips really weren't much to shout about. Well cut and cooked to an enjoyable crunchy texture but lacking in flavour. If I didn't know better, they would just have been ordinary fries to me. 3/10

Side 2: Spinach, creamed with gruyere cheese
I've definitely tasted much better renditions of this one. Pleasant texture and decent taste is all I can say. 3/10.

Mains: Signature Rib-eye
There is no doubt that good steaks are hard to come by and the rib-eye was by far one of the best I've tasted. For one who never goes beyond a medium rare, it was a rare occasion where I ordered a medium to accomodate my dining partner who was sharing the dish and I was left impressed. Full flavoured with a sweetness and yet tender even when cooked to medium, the grilled crisp exterior of the steaks is a warm contrast to the succulent juicy flesh.

Mains: both steaks. Rib-eye on the left, Sirloin on the right
The sirloin might not have tasted as good as the rib-eye, but nevertheless manages to hold its own. With less sweetness in the meaty texture, it boasts a much more raw taste. Complemented by the tang of the bearnaise sauce, the steaks were certainly gastronomic powerhouses of the night. 8/10

Steaks were accompanied by a recommended Merlot, Panul, Colchagua Valley. A full bodied red with the aromatic intensity of berry and currant flavours, it was fairly ripe and juicy. A good complement indeed.


Dessert: Selection of sorbets
What is dinner without dessert to end on a sweet note? For a sweet-tooth like mine, dessert is simply a must at the end of a good meal. Tonight I chose a medley of homemade sorbets to cleanse the palate, namely Apple, raspberry and lemon. The raspberry was a hands down favourite for both of us, with a richness that was not uncomfortably sweet, the apple was refreshing with a strong taste and the lemon was a tad too sour for my enjoyment. The textures of each were beautiful and smooth. 6/10.

Overall:
After the slate of restaurants recently frequented that have not proven review worthy, it was good to be reminded of proper taste standards in London once more. While not a list topper, Goodman's steaks are reasonably priced for the quality offered and are not too far down my prime steakhouse list. I have no doubts that I will return at some point for more, simply because of the wonderful service experience. Great steaks with a smile, definitely a winning formula!

Goodman Steak Restaurant
11 Old Jewry, London
EC2R 8DU
+44-20-7600-8220
www.goodmanrestaurants.com.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

memories on lygon

A recent encounter brought back fond memories of an Italian rendevous a few years ago. Ironically not formed in the charming cities of Italy, but along the Italian paradiso we call Lygon St in Melbourne Australia.

My time in Melbourne is but a memory now, but it was then I uncovered the rustic appeal of the Italian culture and each time I return, we relive the good times at the place we first met.

He was pretty ordinary it seemed, exuding an easy charm. But the memory left was deep and since then, I've been scouring Italian cafes to see if I may once again taste such a beautiful encounter.

However, my dream encounter has proven elusive on the streets of Singapore and until recently London. Nowhere as captivating and nothing compared to the beautiful memory of Lygon, but still I was glad to have the memory brought back to the forefront of my mind.


Tagliatelle al Salmone @Ciao Bella

The pasta was well cooked but the sauce was overly creamy. Despite the heavy overload of cream however, the taste was pleasant to the palate with a hint of tomato. However, the chunks of salmon pieces were generous but overly salty causing the pasta to taste somewhat bland after.

According to my sources, this is one of the most value for money joints in town. While my verdict that Lygon still emerges the winner hands down, I must say that this dish was a decent attempt with the plus point of the reasonable price of 7 pounds.

Ciao Bella
90 Lambs Conduit St
London WC1N 3LZ
Tel : +44 (0)20 7242 4119
The happy pig has landed in London. More exciting budget adventures await. Only good times to be shared..

Friday, September 17, 2010

a short-lived joy

Still wallowing in the memories of my most recent Italian rendevous with my love, I chanced upon a gorgeous lady introduced to me over lunch. Sadly, the company was short-lived.

At first glance she looked innocuous sitting there, barely drenched, in a getup that hardly caught my eye. Donning a drab shade of orange, speckled with cucumber coolness, she stood out against the pristine backdrop.

But the subtle scent she wore wafted up my nose and it piqued my curiousity. I couldn't resist that alluring smoothness. She was nothing like my love who captivated me from the very start with an explosive first touch. The taste of her was unique like no other, I couldn't quite find the right words to describe it. Drenched in flavour, not enough to overpower, but just enough to conquer. What delicate subtlety. I was mesmerised. With each tantalising mouthful, the waves of pleasure stirred as I delved deeper. Ah, despite her plain looks, her beauty truly lay beyond her appearance.



In loving memory of Spaghetti ai Ricci di Mare e Bottarga di "Carloforte", affectionately known to some as spaghetti with sea urchin and grey mullet bottarga.


The choice of sea urchin in pasta was a bold one. For a fresh uni sashimi lover like me, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Fortunately, the chef at Otto Ristorante managed to pleasantly surprise my fussy tastebuds.

The taste of good quality sea urchin is impeccable. The seasonal delicacy boasts a smooth consistency that melts on the tongue. In this pasta dish, there is no uni presented in solid form. Instead, that delightful sweet flavour tinged with a briny taste of the sea is found in the pasta sauce that is evenly spread over the pasta with only enough left over on the plate to be cleaned up with a small slice of bread. Although the dish looks unassuming and plain, its flavour flirts with the palate, almost always creating a longing for more.


Although its taste is not enough to infiltrate my waking thoughts, it is certainly something I'd crave from time to time. I'd certainly return just for this dish.

Otto Ristorante
28 Maxwell Road
#01-02 Red Dot Building
Tel: +65 62276819

playing hard to get..

Every woman plays hard to get sometimes. And I wasn't ready to initiate a second meeting with my newfound love just yet lest my impatience ruined things. I needed to how my other option measured up and so I took a chance.

We met in a setting nothing like that of the place where I met my love. Instead of warm and cosy earthen colours, it was decked out with full glass panels that overlooked a lush landscape in the hidden tropics of the East. It invoked in me a calm and serene feel and yet it lacked a sense of easy comfort and warmth.

When he arrived, I knew immediately that despite his fame, he would be a disappointment compared to my love, but still I gave it a chance. He lacked that air of mystery that my love had, that peekaboo cheekiness that had first caught my eye. Neither did he have the attention grabbing looks that had turned my head. But it was not that he was of a low standards, my dearest love had already catapulted my tastebuds into a whole different league. Still, if I needed that urgent backup option where my love wasn't available, he'd probably be next in line.


Fettucine Al Granchio at La Cantina in Venezia
My dining partner happened to be allergic to shellfish and so I happily devoured the entire plate.

My first taste was pleasant, with a slightly tangy sweetness and a gorgeous smoothness. The creamy texture was rather enjoyable although it got heavier towards the end. The chunks of crabmeat were generous and rather fresh, that was perhaps the highlight of the dish for me.

The sauce was liberally tossed over the pasta which was cooked al dente. However, the flavour tended to become rather flat after a while and I lost my initial enthusiasm.

Had I not been to Valentino just a few days before, this dish would have ranked fairly high on my favourite list. But now that I've found Valentino, it simply fades into the background. All in all, I'd say it is still a really good dish, but my tastebuds are still loyal to Valentino's version of Linguine Al Granchio.


La Cantina in Venezia
#08/09-02 Changi Village Hotel
1 Netheravon Road

Thursday, September 16, 2010

can't stop thinking about you..

I simply can't stop thinking about that sexy aftertaste in my mouth that lingers, the smooth firm texture, that unforgettable smell and that happy warmth that bubbles up inside...







Oh wait, before I gush on, let's first acquaint all of you with this gorgeous love of mine....


Everyone, meet my new love,
Ristorante Da Valentino's Fettucine Al Granchio





















Every meal to me, is more than just food to fill my belly. As any foodie would tell you, we live to eat. Instead of thinking of it as a necessity to get through my day, I much prefer to allude it a show that has an opening, a body and a closing. You know there's always that point in the musical where everything stops for a moment, when the climax is reached? It's the same with a brilliant food journey, there's always that point where the sweet spot is hit, the point at which your lids fall and lips part in utter pleasure, when u savour that delicate explosion of flavours in your mouth.

My first bite of this dish was the delightful sweet spot of the night. If I am to be utterly honest, I wasn't particularly sure of the pairing of squid ink pasta tossed with crabmeat, two distinctly individual flavours mixed together. Granted that both were seafood, but one has that deeply crustacean punch and the other has this uniquely dominant flavour. I've had rave reviews of this dish from friends and so my expectations were almost sky high.

When first served, the black squid ink pasta is completely incongruent against the creamy orange tomato base but that piques my interest. The dish is served bare save for the basic garnishing of a herbed leaf. The fettucine was done al dente much to my delight. Unlike previous crabmeat in tomato based pastas I've tried where the crabmeat is drowned out by the creamy tomato base, this one struck such a finely tuned balance with the tomato in the background complementing the crustacean star. The sweet crustacean aftertaste lingered on my tastebuds afterward. The amount of cream used in the dish was optimum and I didn't feel the usual heaviness from a cream overload.

So far, it's the best pairing I've tasted. I'm already craving for more. The waiting time up to my next visit is such a torture...

Of course, though my love was the star of the show, I couldn't quite discount the supporting ensemble that night, whose opening act drew out anticipation in me.

Supporting actor 1: grilled parcel of cheese wrapped with premium ham

The ham was nicely grilled to create a crispy texture without being too dry and the melted cheese oozed out as soon as I cut open the parcel. So far so good.

The taste test did not disappoint either, the thin layer of grilled ham although crispy, had a tangy bite and its saltiness contrasted the milder cheese flavour. However, towards the end, the saltiness got a tad overpowering.

In my opinion though, a slightly sweeter cheese could have been used to balance out the salty flavour of the dish. I tend to prefer stronger contrast in my dishes.


Supporting actor 2: grilled octopus leg

My dining partner particularly enjoyed this dish having a weakness for squids. The large grilled tentacle was served curled up nicely on a bed of salad. The deep red flesh stood out from the bed of greens topped with a slice of lemon and the colour mix was appealing which scored presentation points with me. The server then proceeds to slice it up at the table into bite sized sized pieces.

The bite was slightly crunchy and the meat was springy. The flavour was kept original and was not enhanced by much more. When the lemon was squeezed on, a tangy edge was added that I quite enjoyed.

In my opinion, the taste was nothing spectacular but the texture and freshness was above average. Not something that I would shout about but still a pretty well done dish.


Generally, any one versed with the ways of staging performances would tell you that the finale is key to pulling the show together. If the finale lets down, the audience generally walk away less than impressed. On the contrary, a good finale, could boost audience perception of the entire experience. In culinary terms, I'm a strong believer in the closing acts which is why desserts are such a strong point of consideration for me.

Tonight, the closing act was the tiramisu, a traditional Italian dessert that dearly love. The standard of the tiramisu is often congruent with the standards of the rest of the meal in my opinion. And in this case, it held true.

Closing act: Tiramisu

The texture was delightfully creamy and smooth albeit a bit of an overdose on the cocoa powder which choked me slightly. The sponge layers were adequately soaked with a precise amount of liqueur which was enough to tantalise but not enough to overwhelm. The blend put together was a delightful sensation for my tastebuds.

Not the best I've had, but it definitely holds its own.





But, it's more than just the performers involved, the setting plays a crucial role in determining the extent of the audience experience.

This rendition took place, not in a typical posh Italian restaurant, but in a quaint family run restaurant infused with warmth and cosiness and interspersed with lively chatter. The walls are decked out with family pictures and posters and the colours theme is fairly rustic which contributes to the warm setting. It provides a comfortable environment for a hearty meal with an easy ambience and I found myself rather laidback throughout the night.

The service is impeccable and deserves a thumbs up, from the service provided to the friendly smiles that greet patrons all round.

And that, was the gorgeous Italian rendition I indulged in just a few nights ago. An experience I'm looking forward to repeat soon in fact.


Ristorante Da Valentino

11 Jalan Bingka
Singapore 588908
Restaurant: 6462 0555

avandia

avandia