steak with a smile

There's something good steakhouses have in common. Word gets around. For one with a repuatation like Goodman's it was no wonder that even on a monday night, there were scarcely empty tables in sight.

The double door entrance though minimalist, draws a premonition of a reasonably posh setting. With a classic bar counter to greet us at the entrance, I had a hunch my instincts were right. Waiting time for a table was kept to a minimum and we were quickly shown our seats. In what sounds like a contradiction, the lighting was dimly bright. Not one of those places that tends to be so dim you can barely see your food, it was bright enough for me to notice the clear marbling differences when the meat tray was brought over, and yet it was still dim enough to create a cosy ambience. With waitresses dressed in impeccably white aprons that front an otherwise black ensemble, the look is polished and sleek, blending in with the decor. I'm impressed to note that for serving what could be considered a messy dish, the aprons remain at pristine standards.

Tonight's cast featured of course the steaks as the stars of the show. But as I always say, what is a good show without a good opening act?

I opted for a recommended glass of gorgeously sweet dessert wine to start things off, 2006 Mylitta Tokaji, Hungary, while my dining partner chose a 2009 St Clair Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand.

The dessert wine in a beautiful deep gold with its concentrated rich palate was long and sweet. Strongly boasting powerful deep muscat notes pierced with sweet apricot, it was a real delight on the palate and did not disappoint at all.

My partner's Sauvignon Blanc was rather crisp, a light blend with a good bite to the finish. I detected strong notes of blackcurrant and passionfruit on the tongue, with a hint of zestiness picked up by the nose. A pleasant wine of medium body, great for a pre-dinner buildup.

Appetisers of Pork belly, tiger prawn tempura and crab bisque arrived jointly at the table. For a steakhouse, these were of rather decent standards and much effort was put into each presentation.

Appetiser 1: Crab bisque

Served in french style where the bisque was poured in at the table. Rich and creamy, the soup was fairly flavoursome but the taste of the crabmeat was over powered slightly by the overall saltiness. The lingering crustacean flavour on the taste buds were enjoyable and the shredded mass of crabmeat in the middle was well cooked and fresh. It did smell wonderful to me although my dining partner begs to differ. A seeming variation on the more commonly found lobster bisque, it was a decent try I found rather enjoyable. 6/10.

Appetiser 2: Pork Belly strips

The presentation also made for a fairly appetising appeal and this was a dish that both my dining partner and myself enjoyed. However, her much more than me. Perhaps as a fan of chinese styled braised pork belly, I have been spoilt by and grown much too accustomed to the typical tenderness which i much prefer. While she found the taste gorgeous, me being fussy me found that the meat was not as tender as I would have liked and the meaty flavour could be more intense but it is certainly one of the better non asian renditions I have sampled of this dish. In addition, the succulent fat melted in my mouth in accompaniment with a sweetness of the meat and the texture was overall great. 6.5/10

Appetiser 3: tiger prawn tempura, with avocado, mango and cajun mayonnaise.

I'm generally not a fan of tempura in western joints due to the thickness of batter. However, it came recommended by a waiter and I saw no harm in giving it another shot. The batter surprised me pleasantly, it was crisp and not as thick as I expected, with a light fluffy coat that detached from the prawn rather easily. The prawns were fresh and succulent and fairly tasty. The mix however, was overpowered by the avocado which triggered a sense of flatness which I failed to enjoy. However as a whole, fairly good attempt that has me rethinking tempura in western joints. Kudos to the chef. 7/10.

Side 1: Truffle chips

The truffle chips really weren't much to shout about. Well cut and cooked to an enjoyable crunchy texture but lacking in flavour. If I didn't know better, they would just have been ordinary fries to me. 3/10

Side 2: Spinach, creamed with gruyere cheese

I've definitely tasted much better renditions of this one. Pleasant texture and decent taste is all I can say. 3/10.

Mains: Signature Rib-eye

There is no doubt that good steaks are hard to come by and the rib-eye was by far one of the best I've tasted. For one who never goes beyond a medium rare, it was a rare occasion where I ordered a medium to accomodate my dining partner who was sharing the dish and I was left impressed. Full flavoured with a sweetness and yet tender even when cooked to medium, the grilled crisp exterior of the steaks is a warm contrast to the succulent juicy flesh.

Mains: both steaks. Rib-eye on the left, Sirloin on the right

The sirloin might not have tasted as good as the rib-eye, but nevertheless manages to hold its own. With less sweetness in the meaty texture, it boasts a much more raw taste. Complemented by the tang of the bearnaise sauce, the steaks were certainly gastronomic powerhouses of the night. 8/10

Steaks were accompanied by a recommended Merlot, Panul, Colchagua Valley. A full bodied red with the aromatic intensity of berry and currant flavours, it was fairly ripe and juicy. A good complement indeed.

Dessert: Selection of sorbets

What is dinner without dessert to end on a sweet note? For a sweet-tooth like mine, dessert is simply a must at the end of a good meal. Tonight I chose a medley of homemade sorbets to cleanse the palate, namely Apple, raspberry and lemon. The raspberry was a hands down favourite for both of us, with a richness that was not uncomfortably sweet, the apple was refreshing with a strong taste and the lemon was a tad too sour for my enjoyment. The textures of each were beautiful and smooth. 6/10.

Overall:

After the slate of restaurants recently frequented that have not proven review worthy, it was good to be reminded of proper taste standards in London once more. While not a list topper, Goodman's steaks are reasonably priced for the quality offered and are not too far down my prime steakhouse list. I have no doubts that I will return at some point for more, simply because of the wonderful service experience. Great steaks with a smile, definitely a winning formula!

Goodman Steak Restaurant

11 Old Jewry, London

EC2R 8DU

+44-20-7600-8220

www.goodmanrestaurants.com.